Day 1 3.18
Today was mostly a driving day—Big Bend is a super long way from my house…17 hours. However, I was making a stop a couple of hours away to visit with a friend I’d met a couple of years ago while traveling. Before I could make it to Wichita though, a snow storm popped up & slowed traffic on the interstate to a nerve wracking 40mph for about 45 minutes. I can’t express enough, my dislike & disdain for driving in winter weather!
Miki had chosen a coffee shop close to the highway & finally I’d made it there & we enjoyed a nice face-to-face conversation (vs. a Facebook chat). I’d met Miki in Idaho below the backside of the Tetons at Grand Teton Brewery. She & her husband were on their motorcycles taking a cross country trip…we were actually on the same route just in opposite directions. We all were enjoying one of the breweries fine beers outside in the beauty of the mountains, got to visiting & soon realized we only lived about 2.5 hours away from each other. After visiting longer & possibly another beer, we exchanged info & said we’d meet up one day in Kansas. Today was that day. Our conversation mostly centered around travel…both of our favorite subject. After a couple of hours I was back on the road, heading south south south south…lots of driving today. Note: This brewery is pretty magical for me. The previous time I was traveling through there, I also met a new friend. Laura & I have since met in person again as she was traveling through Kansas one time & stayed at our place. Good beer & new friends…a winning brewery for sure!
About 7:45pm, I pulled over at a rest stop near Sweetwater Texas, crawled in the back of Camper & was ready for sleep.
Day 2 3.19
Once up early in the morning, I drove until I landed in Marathon, TX. I thought this was supposed to be a really cool town before dropping down into Big Bend. It’s very small & there’s only about 3 shops there, a grocery store that was supposed to be really neat (not really) & a brewery. I waited until the Brick Vault BBQ & Brewery opened & ordered a beer & some ribs. Both were just OK, but I’d given the town a try & that’s what exploring is all about.
I arrived in Big Bend National Park earlier than I’d planned. My camp reservations didn’t start until tomorrow night so I had to get creative. I had no idea how big this park is…it’s HUGE. There seem to be three sections—Rio Grande Village at the east end; Chisos Basin in the middle & Cottonwood on the west side….& in between, is miles & miles & what seems like hours of driving. And, yes, gas is $4.54 here. I drove up to see the Chisos Basin area first…it’s where the National Park Lodge is. Some NP lodges are amazing & so very beautiful & historic; while others are not so cool. The one & only hotel in the park, is very plain…not cool at all. The campgrounds here are all full, so I knew there’d be no legit place to stay tonight. I’d asked at the Visitors Center where might be a good place to shoot night photography & they gave me a couple of ideas.
As I was leaving the Chisos Basin area though, I was also passing the tiny parking lot to the popular Lost Mine Trail...the one I’d planned on hiking early tomorrow morning to watch the sunrise. But, a car was pulling out, so I stopped, then pulled in & parked. I knew this was Spring Break week, & if I’d gotten this info off the internet--that this hike is a great one to watch the sunrise--so had a bunch of other people. And this parking lot only held about 15 cars. So, I loaded up my pack & started on the trail. It’s just under 6mi & 1,100’ elevation.
It was great to be back hiking on a new trail! Now it was time to get creative & find a place to sleep tonight. I didn’t know how strict they are at this park; didn’t want “the knock” in the middle of the night. I drove to the Sotol Vista where the VC suggested I go for night photography…& it was also a place on my list to watch the sunset. I got there about an hour before sunset & a couple of cars were already there, staking out their spots. I made something to eat, got out my cameras & waited. The place did not disappoint.
I am so bad a night photography, but I gave it a try using tonights full moon for practice.
Day 3 3.20
I left my little parking spot at 3:30am…driving so alertly in the dark so I wouldn’t hit any animals. It’s about an hours drive from the Chisos Basin area over to the western side of the park. I was trying to organize my hikes by the parts of the park, rather than spending hours driving back & forth. Santa Elena Canyon was supposed to be a great place to see the sunrise. I got to the empty parking lot about 4:30am, tucked in the back to sleep for a couple of hours.
There was only one other guy that showed up to watch the sun come up & we both hiked up to the ‘perfect spot’. I guess the internet wasn’t wrong.
After sunrise, he left to go back to his car, & I headed up the trail. I knew this was just a couple of miles long, but I love canyon hikes & wanted to see the rest of it. Wow…it turned out to be one of my favorite hikes.
No one else was there & it was really quiet. Then I saw something huge swimming in the water….turns out there were three beavers. Then I heard something like a gunshot (only not quite as loud). I learned later on, that beavers slap their tales against the water as a warning to the other beavers.
I stood & watched them for awhile, then hiked on as far as I could down the canyon. The trail eventually dumps right into the water, but the view between the canyon walls was so awesome!
The next hike along the way was called Mules Ears Spring…named after the rock formation that looks like Mules Ears.
The trail winds you through the desert & eventually you end up in a green area of cottonwood trees. These desert springs always seem so amazing to me. I’m sure they were lifesavers to those who lived & traveled through there many years ago. It was a big drop down to touch the source (which I did not do), but was pretty cool to see the little ferns growing in this desolate country.
My last hike for the day on the way back across the park, is called the Chimneys hike. It’s literally a 2+ mile walk straight through the desert to some rock formations….it was hot & it just seemed like a chore. I’d read about the panel of pictographs here & that’s my reason for doing this hot sort of boring hike. .
There is only one panel, but these are always so cool to see
While exploring around back there, I found a little arch too!
Now it was time to start the long drive to the east side of the park where I’d be camping for the next few days. On the way, I bought ice & gas & filled up with water. I’m what they call a “hop scotcher”…I’ll change campsites 4 times in 5 days. That’s how booked they were a couple of months ago when I decided to add BB to my New Mexico trip. It certainly wasn’t close to my starting point, but it was close to New Mexico & I’d figured this might be the time to see this BIG park.
My campsite was super nice…a pull in spot, surrounded by trees giving me tons of privacy, a picnic table of my own & the best part was I was in the “no generator’ zone.
After I was parked & all situated, I put on my swim trunks & wore my jog bra & took a shower….I love my little USB shower. It’s definitely the best new item I’ve purchased for my travels in the past couple of years. Then I made a drink & opened a book, ready to relax for the evening. I’d driven a ton today…both getting to the park & within the park & hiked almost 12 miles. I was tired!
Day 4 3.21
I was set on eating breakfast out this morning AND scoring a parking spot at Chisos Basin to hike the Windows Trail. When I was up there last Saturday afternoon, there was no place to park & the road was lined with parked cars (parked right next to the No Parking signs). So, once again, I woke up early…about 6:30am & drove back to the center of the park. The lot was fairly empty except for those staying at the lodge. The park has super random cell service…none where I’m camped, but up here at Chisos I could get a signal. I looked up the restaurants hours, dreaming of bacon & eggs…most restaurants can’t mess that up. But, just that week, the restaurant had changed it’s hours to open at 2pm….until after dinner. I was super surprised. I had food in my car—I’d come with more than normal, because I knew they only had the one restaurant & the camp stores didn’t stock much fresh & usually just convenience store type food. But, if you were staying at the hotel & needed breakfast & lunch? or had little kids? That just seemed crazy to me. I eventually got on the trail as the parking lot added more cars.
The Windows trail is about 5.6mi RT & a pretty easy hike. There were others on the trail, but not many. They all stopped frequently & soon I was out in front, all by myself. The last portion of this trail, hikes down into a wash & there’s stone steps built & a few rocks you have to just climb over.
As I was just getting farther back into the wash, I jumped when I heard a loud sound. It took me a minute to see what had made it. It was huge mountain sheep just running up the side of the rocks…I couldn’t get a great shot, so after I’d tried I just watched it climb straight up leaping vertical leaps until it was on top. Way cool!
Then I was lucky enough to be at the Window View all alone. I know a lot of people have their photo taken in the middle, I was glad I could shoot freely without having to wait or getting so many strangers in my shots. Heres the Window view.
I went back to the 4Runner, & took off my pack. Then I went into the little camp store to see what they had. A much better selection than the nearly empty store down in Rio Grande. I could find a lot of junk food, & while it sounded great, didn’t think it was a great choice. But what kept drawing me back, was the “ local” section & the Terlingua jalapeño pickles for a crazy price. It took me three times of strolling by, to decide to buy them. I went back out the 4Runner, grabbed a pouch of tuna (bleh!) from my kitchen & added a boatload of pickles to the pouch. Wow! They’re great! More on the pickles later... The next trail starts from the same parking lot….it’s the Chisos Basin trail. A loop that contains beautiful views of the whole basin.
The last hike on this side of the park is the Grapevine Hills trail, which begins after you drive a rough slow 6 miles rocky, bumpy torturous road. The hike here looks nothing like any of the others I’d done in the park. Huge rocks all around…really cool.
I was hiking to a formation called “Balanced Rock” (I always wondered if you Googled that name, how many formations would come up? A whole bunch of them.) The trail was all sand until near the end & you had to climb up over the rocks, sketchy sometimes, but there was always a faint trail & lots of signs with arrows pointing the way.
Balanced Rock….one of hundreds throughout our parks!
I refilled my water, called Danny when I drove by the Visitors Center, then drove back to the east side of the park & into my new, icky campspot. I wasn’t really that bad, but I pretty much had to park right by the road (which means sleeping right near the road). It’s also the way to get to the Nature Hike & Sunset hike, so there were people walking by all the time. Someone even thought it was a great place to park, because when I got there a vehicle was parked in my site. Some things can be irritating but no big deal in the long run.
But, there was some trip magic happening! I belong to a FB group called "Solo Women Car Campers & Travelers”. And, as with most women’s groups, they are very encouraging & full of info to share. A few weeks ago, a woman named Annette posted she would be in BBNP at the same time as I would be there. I DM her & gave her my campsite numbers & said I’d enjoy meeting up if she was game too. And, so we did! We walked the trail to watch the sunset together & started a new friendship. She is a really good photographer, much much younger than me, & this was her first big solo trip. We chatted about all things travel & it was so great to meet her!
We said good night, went to our campsites & I turned in to read. The best thing about getting up to pee at night when you car camp? The star filled sky! Big Bend is a Dark Sky park & tonights sky was super beautiful!
Day 5 3.22
Today, I slept in. There was no need to get up in the dark & drive anywhere. While I typically am not a person who loves a lot of down time in camp, I can relax when I want. A lazy morning then a close hike called Daniels Ranch. It’s a 3 mile hike near the Rio Grande Village, that climbs up to great views of the river….then takes out across the gorgeous desert. You can see for so far!
Near the turn around point is super great…amazing views of the Rio Grande & a hot spring!
Loved this view of a guy riding his horse along the river…that would be fun to do!
I knew I could soak in my hiking shorts & they’d dry on the trail going back. I had a jog bra on & no one pays any attention to old ladies anyway. I’d seen some canoes anchored on the other side & I knew Annette was on a float trip today. There were about 10 people in the pool, but it didn’t seem crowded. I waited (as per hot spring etiquette) to photograph until everyone was out. The temp was just perfect & what a super great thing to do mid-hike. And then I looked up as someone said “Vicki!” & it was Annette. Her float group was parked & made it over for a soak.
I loved loved loved this hike! On the way back, I took a photograph of these natural formations in the rock that I think are called Metates (I’m currently working on the website with no cell service so can’t look it up). The Native Americans used them to grind the grains for cooking.
What a good day & hardly any driving. I made to campsite #3 & I’d be here for 2 nights. It was better than last nights, but not as good as night #1.
Day 6 3.23
Hola! Today is one I’ve been looking forward to. Not really knowing what to expect, I’m up to see what happens. Near the Rio Grande Village is the border crossing to Boquillas, Mexico. They are only open Wednesday-Sunday. Today, being Wednesday, I was ready to go! You park your car & make your way down to the US Border station. There, you’re told what you can not bring back across the border & that you’ll need a valid passport to get back into the states. The hours were 9am-4pm. Then you walk out the back door & down through the sandy trail to the river. There, you’ll find a Mexican man ready to paddle you across the river in his little boat for $5RT, or you can wade. It was about thigh-waist deep today.
Then once into Mexico (their Border Guards are not currently there), you can walk 3/4mi into town, or pay to ride in a truck, on a donkey or a horse…$10RT. Each donkey, horse or truck is owned by a local & they go in turn. They also have some young boys from the village helping with the animals. My donkey’s name was William & owned by Raul. He asked me if he could also be my guide while I was in Boquillas…they work for tips. This I didn’t know about, but it was really nice. I hopped up on William & Raul took his lead & off we went.
After we arrived in town, William stayed behind & Raul showed me Boquillas. There are about 250 people who live in the town.
A few children, one at at time, came up to me selling bracelets. The same bracelets I’d seen when I was in Merida, last November. Along the streets, you see some women with stalls or tables set up in front of the small homes, selling embroidered aprons or towels; jewelry; wire beaded animals; etc. (I have a friend who runs photography trips down here every year. During 2020, when the Border was closed, she bought quite a few items from one of the families in town, put them on her website so we could purchase these things to help the families during lockdown. I have a really nice Mexican backpack I bought. So, I’d felt a connection with this place before today.) Raul took me by the solar farm…it’s only been in the last 7 years that they’ve had electricity. There was one shop that sold larger items, like blankets, ponchos, statues, etc. There was one ‘convenience’ type store that sold soda & candy. There were two small schools….one for lower grades & one for upper.
This was the church. Most residents are either Catholic or Baptist. He took me inside, which was simple benches & a few statues. The priest comes once every two weeks. And, the same with the Medical clinic…a Doctors rotate & come every two weeks. They are 160 miles from the nearest town.
There were two places to eat & Raul took me to one. The owner came out & told me of three selections today. I passed on the goat tacos but ordered the chicken tamales & a margarita. There was also chips & salsa & a bowl of jalapeños brought to the table. The margarita definitely won’t make the list of BEST in my long study of the drink, but it was good enough & the food was too. All for $13 plus a tip. Throughout my tour, the locals would speak Spanish to each other, laughing as neighbors & friends do & saying hi to the little children that we’d see.
In the end, I bought bracelets from 4 different children & women (2 for the grand girls & the other 2, well just because). I also bought 2 embroidered hearts for the girls. Then I tipped Raul generously at the end. I spent about 2 hours in Mexico & Raul, who spoke English perfectly, & was gracious listening to my not-so-perfect Spanish I was trying. William was waiting for me when I was headed back & we trotted down to the river. I was paddled back across to the USA & said a big “gracious!” to my boatman. Then I was in the Border office, slipping my passport under an electronic reader, looking up into a camera & answering a few questions from some remote US Border Guard.
It had been a super expensive day for me & not anything like I expected. Frankly, I thought it would be more touristy & nice homes & neighborhoods. The locals that live there make their entire income doing this. Raul has lived there his whole life & this is what he does. I can’t believe there would be anyone, anyone who could experience this & think they are people taking advantage of you. If you could see their small shacks for homes & such a tiny village so far from everywhere. While it’s hard for me sometimes to part with money, I thought this was good reason. Raul was lovely & answered my gazillion questions.
The little children were….little children. Isn’t that one thing—no matter our political or religious differences— that we have in common? Children just want to have a good life; to play & grow up in a safe environment; to laugh; to have family; education; be healthy. Your ethnicity should not change that.
This little trip that I thought would be just another tourist fun day, was different for me. I came away thinking about it all. How would Raul -or anyone in that village- change their circumstances if they wanted to? As I’d hike on trails on the US side in Big Bend, sometimes you’d see some of the same little trinkets for sale…they’d just be on the side of the trail with a money jar. Sometimes you’d see a guy & his horse farther away, knowing that was his stuff to sell.
While I was eating my lunch, I noticed this painting on a skull on the wall. I asked Raul what, “No Al Muro” meant. He looked up & said, “No wall”. One of the bracelets I bought said the same thing only in English. I wondered if the little girl who I bought it from, about Claire’s age, knew about that.
I was so glad I’d had this experience, but couldn’t shake the thoughts that kept streaming through my head. Near the Border crossing, back on the US side, was the trail named Boquillas Canyon trail. And, so I hiked & it was beautiful. The river gorgeous…& source of water for so much, but also, in this area, defines us & them. And for me personally, I’m glad its just a river & not a wall.
I don’t know what this plant is, but I loved it! Little tiny pom poms of beautiful gold.
I love seeing horses! I don’t think this one was wild, but belonged to someone selling trinkets along the trail.
The canyon was wonderful!
Once back at camp, I walked across the campground to the Nature Trail.
Blooming in the desert.
Day 7 3.24
I had been debating what to do next. I’d hiked everything in the park I’d wanted to except the big peak. And being it was Spring Break, that trail seemed super packed with peak baggers. I had one more night of camping paid for & I would have the best site yet & back in the No Generator Zone.
But, I decided to leave. I told the Camphost I wouldn’t be there the next night so that they could open it up for anyone that would show up without a reservation.
So, I took off going west this morning, stopping in the town of Terlingua that I’d heard so much about. A lot of people that come to visit Big Bend stay in this town. There are hotels & RV parks & food. The famous place to eat is the Starlight Theatre, which was closed when I went through this morning. I hear the wait to eat is sometimes two hours but it’s too pricey for me anyway, so I had no disappointment in not going there.
I stopped at a couple of artists places, for gas & wanted lunch. I’d heard about the BBQ place called DB’s. I ordered a sandwich which was ok. But what kind of hit me most was, the people who were working there. There were three of them…you order at a counter & pick up at a counter & then tip. OK…I get that. But after I ordered, no one said a word to me. I was the only one in there. Not a friendly place at all…not this day anyway. I guess I’m used to so many friendly people I meet when I eat out, it kind of surprises me to go into such a unwelcoming place. Not a problem, since I doubt I’ll ever be back this way again. I stopped in the big store next to the Starlight…really nice staff there. AND, I FOUND MY TERLINGUA PICKLES! I’d looked for them in several places on my way through the town. So, I bought another jar but determined to find some back home or learn how to make them! (Canning is not my thing anymore though).
I kept going by signs all morning that said “No Services next 70 miles” or longer…they always make me nervous. I did the scenic drive through Big Bend State Park, but as stated earlier, I’m not sure I’d recommend it. I did stop in the Visitors Center before I embarked on the long & desolate journey. The woman said I’d need to pay $5 for entrance fee if I stopped anywhere along the highway…especially if I took a photo. If I wouldn’t stop along the highway, I wouldn’t have to pay. Often, I think we live in crazy, non-sensical world. I started to pay, then she wanted me to fill out a form with my name, address, license plate, car make & model….I just stopped her - No, I think I’ll just drive straight through…I have tons of desert pictures anyway.
I drove through Marfa, another “must stop” place I’d heard about. The cocktail bar I’d wanted to go to didn’t open until 5, so that wasn’t happening. I drove around town, then parked & went into one of the shops that was open….it sold Vintage clothing, some local artists work….a unique selection of things. There two other shoppers in the store & as I strolled down the aisle, & saw the owner, I asked if there were other little unique shops open today.
Wow…I got an attitude thrown back in my face! She said, “I always get asked that! You don’t understand how Marfa is. Let me just educate you”. I threw up my hands (like you’re being arrested) & said “Hey, no problem, I’ll just go ask at the Visitors Center”. But, she kept coming at me as I was backing toward the other two customers…I wasn’t going thru this alone. Then she went into lecture mode “I don’t know what you expect, but we don’t have MALLS here. We go SLOW here…you need to TAKE YOUR TIME…this town isn’t like others” & on & on. Then I stopped her & said, “you have no idea what I expect. And, I know SLOW…I just drove from Big Bend National Park through Big Bend State Park (I wouldn’t recommend it) & now I’m here.” I SLOWLY walked to the door & left. About 20 minutes later I was in the Visitors Center talking to a friendly guy, when the other two customers from the crazy-lady store walked in. They said, Wow…we saw you trying to leave; that was crazy.
I did go by the Planet Marfa bar, which was really cool, before I left & found lots of nice locals there. I had a wonderful Margarita to replace the bitter taste in my mouth from todays meanies in Terlingua & Marfa.
I’m nice right? Nice. What’s wrong with people?
Then I was at the Guadalupe Mountain National Park. I was hoping to hike here & maybe find an empty campsite last minute. This park is as tiny as Big Bend is big. I arrived at 6pm…too late to start hiking. I took one look at the campground…which I kid you not….was the parking lot. Only the ‘campground’ had numbers painted at the end of their parking spaces. I was pretty shocked…I’d never seen a National Park campground this dumb. The hike I’d wanted to do, was recently put on the parks “Alert!” website as difficult. They were seemingly not highly recommending it. Between that & the parking-lot-campground, I decided to leave Texas, for now.
Welcome to New Mexico! Just up the road about 30 miles,I found a campspot at the BLM Choso campground…..pretty much just a huge parking lot & there were tons of RV’s, trailers, vans, etc. there. I’ve stayed here before, but last time it was just me & one other person. It might have been a lot, be we were all still farther away from each other than those poor RV’s back at GMNP. And, I was grateful for the free, safe site & I had a pretty nice view of the sunset!
