day 16…4.27
By early the next morning I was in Flagstaff eating at the MIX Marketplace downtown. Wow! I had their carrot cake pancakes…yummy! By the time I was done eating, the few little funky shops in this self contained quirky plaza were opened so I looked around. I bought a pair of post earrings that match my tattoo almost exactly!
Then I headed north towards one of my favorite National Parks…the Grand Canyon. I was here two years ago & was interested in hiking the Hermit’s Rest trail. When I was here before, it had snowed several inches the night before my planned hike, so I had not gone. But I needed more info first, so I spent most of the day trying to figure if I still wanted to do this hike or not.
I asked the Ranger, I asked the lady at the Hermit’s Rest gift shop (who had hiked the trail) & I already had the info my cousin had given me. I sort of was overthinking it. But something in me, just wasn’t ready to commit to do this hike tomorrow. I plunked myself down at a picnic table near the trailhead & in about 20 minutes a couple came up off the trail. They were more than happy to sit a bit & chat about the trail. One of my knees was being cranky & so I kept asking everyone if these are ‘rock steps’ or just a steep dirt trail. I got different answers all around. But then the young couple said one thing that finally made my decision. While I knew this trail was more remote & very few people hike on it, none of that concerned me. But when the guy said, “you don’t see the big views like you do from the other trails…”, that did it for me. I knew I wanted to see the BIG views…this is a BIG place & I wanted to take in as much as possible. I had done the South Kaibab two years ago down to Skeleton Point & loved it. I thought I might also be able to fit in a second hike…maybe?? happy knee?? & do the Bright Angel trail which is super popular, but I haven’t done it years. But, my decision was made…tomorrow, I’d hike the South Kaibab & maybe on Sunday do the Bright Angel.
View looking down over the Bright Angel trail.
It was a really nice & sunny, but a cool day & I enjoyed all my walking/looking/photographing…repeat, repeat, repeat. I decided today would be a good day to get a load of laundry done, so I headed toward the campground & did a quick load. Then I stopped by the general store & picked up a few things for dinner, then headed out of the park to find a campsite I’d read about. About 10 minutes outside the park, there’s a National Forest road & down that road are quite a few places to camp. I drove around for a few minutes until I found my home for the night. I don’t dry my clothes at home or on the road, so I used the new “clothesline” Jill bought me & hung everything up, then I set up camp. Then temps which were chilly anyway, were dropping fast. So, I tucked myself in amongst the laundry, with my Rumple blanket & a book. I read some, listened to the birds & enjoyed some down time.
day 17…4.28
I was up early so I could find a parking spot at the Visitors Center. There’s no trailhead parking for the South Kaibab; you have to take the shuttle. As stated before, this is a really popular hike, so there were quite a few of us on the trail…all in hats, gloves, scarves & winter coats. The wind was furious which made the chilly temps even colder. But, off we all went, but it’s kind of amazing how quickly people spread out & then all of a sudden, you don’t feel like you’re on an overcrowded trail…it’s just you going down, down, & down! I think the canyon is sooooo very very beautiful….no matter how many times I see it, it’s still amazing!
The trail (below) as it quickly descends.
You can see the trail below, but it looks so tiny in comparison to all this magnificent HUGE scenery.
down, down, down!
I was hiking 3 miles down…about 2,000’ elevation loss to Skeleton Point which gives you awesome views of the Colorado River. The switchback going down (that you see below) was the second part of the trail that goes all the way to Phantom Canyon Ranch to either tent camp or stay in cabins, but permits are required to do either of these. You can also get there by way of the Bright Angel trail, which is how I did it so many years ago. The wind was really picking up though & being out on the point was big time breezy!
The view from Skeleton Point. There were 3 other people down there at the same time & we had a nice time chatting about what other trails we could see from this point, & other bits of Grand Canyon info. But the wind got so crazy, one guy took off & the other couple tried to find respite out of the wind from another viewpoint. I found my own small windbreak & sat & ate a snack, looked around feeling very grateful for this opportunity, the rallied for then 2,000’ hike back up!
We saw boats floating through the rapids in the emerald green Colorado way below us.
I was a little unfortunate to have been passed by the mule train. As a hiker, you have to give right away to the mules. Then they stop, the driver thens give some history or info & you have to wait. However, this is not much of a hardship…you have the magnificent views & an opportunity to catch your breath. You also have the opportunity to try to avoid stepping in mule shit & mule pee…but hey, your’e lucky & healthy enough to be hiking in this magnificent place…. who cares?
Once you get about 1/2 back up, you get a great view of the switchbacks you climbed down earlier & now, get to go back up!
I really, really love this hike! And though it’s challenging, it’s mostly fun & so incredibly beautiful! The worst part about todays hike was the wind…it was crazy big! At one point…literally a point I was standing on that many hikers stop to take their photograph, a gust came up & I thought wow…I might blow over (not off the trail, just over onto my face!!) As I neared the top, not only did the wind get more fierce but it’s always colder at the top, so I was pretty cold in spite of the exertion it took to climb up. After I made my way back to the top, on the shuttle & back to my car, I drove down near the Bright Angel Lodge.
I was lucky enough to find a parking spot (the Rangers were saying the icky weather was keeping many visitors away today) & decided to ‘stretch my legs’ by walking along the Rim trail…which I love this easy, edgy & long trail with jaw dropping scenery the entire way. I was looking (& asking Rangers) if anyone had spotted any Condors. No one had seen them lately (bummer…I’m always searching for Condors!). So, I went to the lodge & had a local beer from Lumberyard brewery in Flagstaff. It was a really good IPA!
After my beer, I jumped on the shuttle & headed towards Mohave point & walked the trail back towards Hopi point. This is a popular place to watch the sunset. But the thick clouds were rolling in & I wasn’t sure anyone would actually be able to see the sun, much less it setting. The actual temp was 38 degrees, but the ferocious wind made it really, really cold. So, I was a wuss & decided to not wait in the freezing weather another hour to see the sunset.
On my way out of the park, these gals strode in front of me…
I was hoping I’d still be able to find a campsite on a Friday night & the exact same spot I stayed in last night was still open. I heated up some water & drank some hot chai to try to warm up. In the forest where I’m camping, it was not as windy now as it had been in the park. It turned out to be a nice evening & I was so happy I got to hike the South Kaibab trail today!
One last pic from today….one of the things I love best about the canyon is how the clouds & light constantly change the colors of the rock…casting some into darkness, & create fascinating shadows over the multi color rock & formations…just spectacular!
day 18…4.29
Today I was going to spend the day all along the Desert View area of the park. This is my favorite part of the Grand Canyon! The Watch tower has a fascinating history & I’m a huge fan of Mary Colter who designed most of the buildings here in the park in the early 1900’s. If you haven’t read about her, it’s all fantastic & the opportunity she had back when most women didn’t have many. The weather was sunny, but the temps were dropping & the wind was still at it, blowing hard & furious.
I pulled off the road & made coffee. I decided this had to be the best coffee shop ever!
My next stop was Grandview Point (this is the next trail I’d like to hike whenever I come back to the Canyon). I walked down the trail a little way, which happened to be out of the wind, with morning coffee in hand, & found a perfect rock-chair to sit on. I stayed about 30 minutes, just taking it all in.
I drove down to the Watch tower & went inside & then to my fave lookout point just outside the tower. It was so cold & super windy, but just amazing!
I just kept driving, from lookout point to lookout point, staying awhile at each one just loving it!
Early in the afternoon, I fired up the stove at another spot, & made some chai, found another rock-chair & warmed up with a big smile on my face!
On the way back, I stopped to see an overview of part of the South Kaibab trail I’d hiked yesterday.
All day I’d been considering what I was going to do tomorrow. By late this afternoon, there was a small chance of snow, but definitely more cold & wind predicted for tomorrow. My knee had done great on the trail yesterday, but was begging for a break (the Bisbee 1000 steps, back to back hikes everyday in Sedona & yesterday a 2,000’ descent & then ascent). I decided I didn’t want to hike in this cold wind & I would give my knee the day off.
I found a dirt road off the main paved road & took it for awhile, realizing this would be a great place to camp next time I come to the Canyon. Then I pulled over to a old picnic table, made some lunch & called to FaceTime with Danny.
I’d seen everything I’d wanted to see, so I decided it was time to leave & head back south towards Flagstaff.
I decided I’d do my own brew tour…Historic, Dark Sky & Mother Road. Good beers, some fun bar-conversation & I got warmed up!
I started out a bit too late looking for a campsite; drove down a long road to some chained up FS campsites & roads to nowhere. I ended up finding a place in parking lot…not the best, but it would do. The temps were going to drop near freezing tonight, so I cuddled under by sleeping bag, rumple & quilt for the night.