day 25 . July 28, 2009
So, this morning, I was at my favorite Salida coffee house "Bongo Billy's" at 6:30....right when they opened.
I'm not sure what I'm doing today...I'm pretty beat from the climb yesterday.
I really like historic Salida...it's a fun town to visit...with funky little shops, very good food, and really nice people. There's no free camping close though, and not any really good "close-in hiking".
I've called another "jeep touring" company this morning. The one mountain I most want to be "driven" up, has always been Mt. Antero...which just so happens to be in Buena Vista...about 25 miles from here (check the drive on you-tube....it's amazing!). But, guide companies have to be permitted to drive up this road, and they told me they've already driven up all the people they're permitted for this season. So, no go there.
So, check back later, to see what today brings.
*******
And so....here's what I did, after this last post.
I left Bongo Billy's and asked a couple where some local places to bike are. They told me of a couple of paths...and then said..."oh, and if you're looking for a great place for breakfast (which I wasn't), try the Boathouse Cantina", which was about 100' from where I was.
So, thinking, maybe breakfast might give me some energy (I really needed it!), I went for breakfast. The restaurant is right on the water, so you can watch the kayakers for entertainment. The meal was really good....scrambled eggs, tortillas, black beans and pico de gallo.
Here are some of the kayakers I watched while eating.
After breakfast, I went back to my car, got out my bike, put the front wheel on, and started my "Salida tour--via bike".
They had these really fun painted troughs filled with flowers around the park.
The pic on the left is of the park; they have a lot of events here (last year Danny and I came to the 4th of July celebration and also the Colorado Brewfest in this park). The pic on the right is of not so great bike trail I took; it runs next to the train tracks...but the view of the Collegiate Peaks in the background was great!
And of course, the infamous "S" on the mountain that sits at the end of downtown.
I rode my bike around the town for a little while, then hit a couple of shops. I first went to Salida's gear shop...and finally found some new hiking shorts (I've been looking for new ones for a couple of years. The pair I usually hike in, are about 10 years old; I've sewn them to be smaller, but when I put a camera in one pocket and anything else in the other, they sag pretty low. Not a problem if you're wearing a backpack, because then hip belt helps keep them up; but my daypack doesn't have a hip belt....so, I get a little "droopy".) I thought they were kind of expensive, but really they were about the same price as all the other ones I've been trying on.
The second store I went to was the "Free the Monkey" consignment shop. I bought a couple of really fun things there...then I hit a couple of other resale shops, but none was as good as the Monkey.
I'd had enough shopping, and the only thing I still really wanted to do, was to go to Amica's. It's a little pizza place that serves great pizza and really, yummy, Chile Beer. But, hadn't I just had breakfast? So, I loaded up the bike, and drove north.
The mountains here are really cool...I think there are more 14er's here in one area, than any other place in Colorado. The lake in the pic on the right, is Cottonwood Lake...off of Cottonwood Pass...just outside of Buena Vista.
I ended up driving south again, and turned down Chalk Creek Road...looking for a place to camp.
These are called the "Chalk Cliffs" along Chalk Creek Road.
These are called the "Chalk Cliffs" along Chalk Creek Road.
These are the "Chalk Creek Falls" along Chalk Creek Road (I'm laughing...I seem to be stating the obvious!).
The problem with this road is that there are many resorts and cabins along it and about three NFS Campgrounds...all fee based....AND ALMOST EVERY OTHER PULLOUT, PARKING LOT, AND BARE SPOT ALONG THE ROAD, HAS A "NO OVERNIGHT PARKING" SIGN. Now, whether they (who would that be exactly?) enforce this or not, I don't know. But, as a rule, I try not to park in places where there's a possibility that I'll get hassled.
And so, for the third time this trip, I popped out some money, and paid for a campsite. For my $15 bucks, I get a picnic table and a toilet (down the road), and oh ya, a piece of dirt to put my tent on. Actually, it was a pretty nice camping area, although there were RV's there too (my favorites are where there are only tents).
There is a resort at the beginning of the road (about 8 miles from my campsite) called Mt. Princeton Hot Springs. A guy and his wife that I met at the Ouray Hot Springs said this place was really nice...and affordable. I knew I had cell service there (the only place on this road), and still needed to talk to Danny and let him know where I was camping and my plans for tomorrow.
So, I drove down there. I bought a "day pass", grabbed my swimsuit and towel, and went for a soak. They have three different hot spring areas here; one is a lap pool, one a "soaking" pool (pic on left shows both pools) and then there are these cool "streamside pools". They aren't near as warm as the other two pools, but these were the ones I chose. There were lots of people there, but I had a little pool of my own...and just sat there for about 1 1/2 hours.
And then the sky got dark (it had been iffy all day...cloudy and gray since about noon, threatening enough to keep me from a late afternoon hike, and then about 3:30 pm, the sun came out), there were a few rumbles above, and the pools cleared really fast. I left also, and headed back to the changing room.
(Funny thing....they were charging you an additional $3 if you wanted a shower...and yet....there's a big sign up in the changing room, that you MUST SHOWER BEFORE getting in the pools. You know me, I didn't pay it, thinking if I soaked long enough I'd be pretty clean anyway, but then when I got done soaking in the pool, I went into the shower (they furnished liquid soap, shampoo and conditioner) and cleaned up...and kept my $3! Yes, you can call me "cheap").
So, after my shower, I headed back to my car, thinking I might wait it out, and then try out the "hotter, soaking pool", but then after talking to Danny, and reading for awhile, I decided to head back up the road to my campsite.
I cooked dinner, figured out my hike for tomorrow, and, just as it began to rain and thunder, tucked inside my tent.
A thunderstorm began, with harder rain, loud thunder and a little lightening, but then settled down after a short time. I read for awhile and then went to sleep, lulled by the sound of the gentle rain falling outside.
*******
day 26 . July 29, 2009
I was up by 6:30 am, wanting to get an early start on today's hike...up a 4WD road.
The skies were bright and clear. The trailhead was about 2 miles from my campsite. I made coffee and my "pbj tortilla" (my standard breakfast), and broke down my tent, and loaded everything up in the car...then drove to the trailhead.
I knew I wouldn't make it to the top, but I was trying for the switchbacks that look so cool in all the pictures you see about this particular area. The road is a Forest Service road, I think it's called "Baldwin Creek Road" (yes, it follows Baldwin Creek, and forks off to Baldwin Lakes), but the other fork to goes to the top of Mt. Antero. If I couldn't pay a guide to take me up, I would try to walk it...at least as far as I could.
The road is really rocky, but not too difficult to hike. It got pretty narrow in this one spot (pic on right).
You get some really pretty views of the surrounding mountains on your hike up.
The road begins with a big climb, then goes gently even, the straight up again.
When the road is next to the creek, the noise is really loud; however, the creek is really beautiful with many small waterfalls to look at.
I kept wondering where all the ATV's and 4WD vehicles were?
About an hour after hiking uphill, I stopped (just randomly) for a drink of water and to pop a lemon drop in my mouth...and look what I found?
While I don't believe in carving in the aspens, I was so surprised to see "Greg - Jill" carved into one (my oldest friend, Jill in Dallas is married to Greg).
I knew I had a water crossing, sooner or later, and then it was there. It was wide, not deep, but a "sandal-must". So, I waded across, then changed back into my hikers when I got to the other side.
This is where the fork in the trail takes you up to Baldwin Lakes...a couple of miles further up.
I took the other fork, headed up towards Mt. Antero. This is the first place I saw anyone else on the trail...actually, I just saw two vehicles that were camped on the other side of the stream crossing.
And then I came to ANOTHER stream crossing...didn't expect that. This one was less deep and less wide, but still I needed to change back into my sandals...I guess I'll know to just keep them on, on the way back down.
Then, the climbing began...up and up and up. I didn't know which was louder: the sound of the rushing stream or my breathing!
I got to this spot, which looks like when you start to get above tree line but get's even steeper, and stopped, took a drink, and got out my map.
It was then that the first moving vehicle of day went by (two hours after starting my hike)...really slowly...one guy and a dog.
I watched him climb this steep hill, get stuck, back up, and try again, making it successfully this time. (One thing to mention about this ENTIRE road, is that it has water running down it almost all the way...like little springs coming out, sometimes on the side of the road, and sometimes just in the middle of the road, but it's almost all wet...so when it get's steeper, I'm sure it's harder to get traction...whether on tires or on hikers).
I was also looking at the sky. Then, the first ATVer came by and went up the hill. There was one big, dark cloud, but I started the steep climb, hoping it would blow over me. Huffing and puffing my way for about 10 minutes up the hill....the gray cloud seemed to get darker...and bigger...and quit moving...and so I went down the steep part.
At the bottom, I looked up again. Now it seemed less dark and like it might blow over.
And so, I HIKED UP THE HILL...AGAIN. (Sometimes, I can't believe myself!)
I was hoping the switchbacks I was trying to get to, would be at the top. I couldn't see either vehicle that had gone by me.
The view was beautiful though.
But, no switchbacks.
The road goes back between the mountains, and then climbs another 3 miles and 2,000'. I knew, I was at my turn around point. The sky was so weird...one place the clouds were dark, and another spot, the sky was bright blue and the sun was out. But, I had hiked 5 miles uphill, and was worn out....I still had to go all the way back down.
And, so, once again, I hiked back down the steep part.
It was then I saw a family of three HIKING up the steep part. They asked me a few questions about the hike; they were wanting to go all the way to the top (over 14,000').
Then, vehicles 3-30 started passing us...it was like a friggin' parade! (I guess they'd all slept in, then had a big breakfast, then made their way to the trailhead.)
There were a couple of truly bizarre vehicles (hard to describe the modifications), more ATV's, some jeeps, and herd of 6 Land Rovers (which, to me, even on a normal road, look like the most likely to tip over of any vehicle)...they were all driven by guys, mostly one to car...a few women along for the ride, and about 6 dogs.
So, with about 30 vehicles up on the road, I was really hoping I would be all the way down before the parade passed me a second time (it's a pain to stop and move over, especially if there's no room to move over to, whenever they pass you).
I don't know if it's the color of the rocks here, or what, but the water is soooo beautiful...it's clear, but with a "whitish color"...hard to explain, but I kept wondering what was so different about it....didn't ever figure it out, but it was really pretty.
So, I made my two stream crossings, and while I was sitting down after the second one, changing back into my hikers and grabbing a protein bar, three more ATV's came up the road. It was Grandfather and his two grandsons. He actually made them turn around, drive back down the trail, then ride back up and through the water (one at a time) while he had his video camera on...it was kind of cute.
Then he started talking and talking and talking to me. He thought I was brave to hike alone...but then we started talking about other Colorado 4WD roads, and it was kind of interesting. But, after 20 MINUTES (remember, I was hiking down now, because of the nasty looking clouds), and twice saying goodbye....nice to meet you...have a great ride, I really did leave.
Yeah, I know, the clouds above these mountains look perfectly fine.
As I was hiking down (in the quiet, just me, no "motorized noise"), I saw this little toy on the side of the road. (One of the ATVers I passed, was two adults with a three year old squished between them...could this be his? Or is there some other dufuss, whose carrying around a toy on vacation, taking pictures of it, getting way to attached to it, and then LOST IT LIKE SOME IRRESPONSIBLE PERSON?) So, I picked it up and examined it more closely.
I KNEW, DEFINITELY, I WOULD NOT ADOPT THIS TOY....
#1 reason.....it was a stupid cow...or bull to be exact;
#2 reason....it was a stupid football player....
#3 reason....I'm not, under any circumstances, going to adopt any more toys (see dufuss....above).
But, I could take it down to the beginning of the trail, and hopefully, who ever lost it or wanted it, would see it better there.
More views on the way down the trail.....(I know, I know...the sky looks nice this direction).
The only vehicle that passed me on the way down, was the very first one that passed me on the way up...a guy in a modified Toyota truck with a big dog hanging out the window!
Here's where I left the toy...I hope someone finds it...who ever lost it, or wants it...or a bear if that's the last option. (I have NO GUILT ABOUT IT WHAT SO EVER.)
I got back in the car, and drove down Chalk Creek Road. When I got to the highway, I could either go to Buena Vista or Salida...I chose Salida.
More views of the Collegiate Peaks; Mt. Antero is in the pic on the left.
I'm sitting in the same place in my car just off the highway, pointing the camera in different directions; one is north of me, and the other is south of me. Weird weather!
I got to Salida in about 20 minutes, and decided to eat lunch at Amicas. I had a wonderful crispy pizza, and super great glass of Chile Beer.
I then made a phone call to wish Sherri (Rose) a happy birthday today! and enjoyed visiting with her awhile.
Then I came to Bongo Billy's and drank a luscious Cambric (some drink they make with Early Grey tea, honey, milk and not sure what else...but it's yummy!) and started my posting for the day.
Since, I've been here, a HUGE STORM happened. Power was going in and out at the coffee house, the furniture on the back patio all blew over, including a great big glass table, that went over and then broke into about a million pieces...the wind blew like crazy. SUPER-WEIRD WEATHER!
(Glad I wasn't on top of a mountain or in my tent when that happened!)
I haven't made my plans for tomorrow yet...but the night is still young.
*******
day 27 . July 30, 2009
Well, it stormed here in Salida last night...I was tucked in safely in the Hotel Mazda.
I'd decided to do an 11 mile hike on the Brown's Creek Trail.
I got to the trailhead early, knowing there were possibilities for more storms today....and just sat there. The skies were socked in heavy clouds...and all you could see were the trees. For 2 1/2 hours, I sat at the trailhead, knowing I was surrounded by mountains rising over 14,000' and couldn't see any of them.
I decided to move on.
I got cell service, near the highway (about 8 miles from the trailhead) and visited with a friend on the phone for about 45 minutes. The above photo, was the tiniest bit of mountain, finally showing itself, from beneath the clouds.
After 4 hours from the time I got to the trailhead, the clouds SLOWLY began to lift. By now, it was too late in the day to do such a big hike, and the valleys were still covered in clouds, which meant, even if I was to begin a hike, I wouldn't be able to see anything for the first two or three miles...at least.
The weather wasn't due to get any better until possibly Sunday.
I looked at the atlas...Estes Park...200 miles north...could I go there? Storms forecasted. I looked south again, down towards the Sangre de Cristo mountain range....Storms forecasted. It seemed like the whole state, for the next few days would be deluged by rain, gray skies and thunderstorms. The temp had dropped to about 50 degrees today.
So, I headed east, and drove down Big Sheep canyon....I think it's a really pretty drive. It's more like desert in this area...very curvy roads with lots of rocks and sage brush along the highway (way to curvy to take pics while driving). The sun was out as I drove the highway, but as I looked north, east, south and west, the skies were all dark.
My next plan, was to get to Colorado Springs...I thought maybe I would walk up the incline...I hadn't done it for about 4 years, and just wanted to see if I could do it again. But as I drove into Colorado Springs, it started to rain.
This was the "view" of Pikes Peak....WHICH WAS NO VIEW AT ALL. I didn't think I would try the incline today, I'm sure it would be a wet and slippery mess, and the 4 mile hike down, would be nothing but cloud cover.
My "last day in Colorado" was never a set date. I knew I wanted to be home by Danny's birthday, August 5th, so we could celebrate it together. I also knew he was planning to go to the lake sometime that week, or weekend before or weekend after....he didn't really have a set plan.
So, with the weather being so icky everywhere, and his plans being unset, I just kept driving east...towards Kansas.
I was anxious to see Danny; I'd missed him on this trip more than he'd ever realize.
But, my heart was as heavy and gray as the skies above me....leaving this place that I feel so very close to and so much want to be a part of it's everyday life.
So, I drove and drove and drove, and made it back to the house about 10:30 pm.
******
I don't want to end this amazing trip I had on a sad note, so I'm going to post some of my favorite pics again!
Meeting Stacy and Laura was such a highlight...I hope to connect with these two again....
And getting to (finally) hike up to Twin Lakes was so great!
Having the Rose's come to visit, in this special place that means so much to me, was super-fantastic! The hikes we did were a lot fun, and I loved showing them Crested Butte.
The awesome...Rustler's Gulch.
Scarpe Ridge was so magnificent...I'll be doing this hike again, over and over and over!
Hasley Basin was every bit as beautiful as other hikers said it would be.
******
This year, I spent two weeks in Crested Butte...my longest so far. It has so many accessible trails, great camping, and such amazing views, and the people you meet are so very nice....it's definitely the most special place in Colorado and in my heart. It's easy to understand why so many people want to live here in the summer and fall.
******
I hiked more than 150 miles on this trip....(I had 5 days that I didn't hike: 2 because of weather; 1 for personal hygiene and laundry and 2 for driving) and enjoyed every moment of it. There were many times I wished Danny were here with me, to enjoy it all; I really missed hiking and backpacking with him.
But, there is something to learn about yourself when you travel alone, hike alone, and camp alone, especially for an extended period of time...and each time I travel solo, I learn more and more about what I can do that I thought I couldn't, what I can't do, what I choose not to do, and what direction I want my life to take.
My trip was filled with meeting new people, and some great food, but most wonderfully, such incredible scenery that will keep my heart and mind filled and warmed through the cold, Kansas winter months...
and yet....there's "Fall" in between...all those golden aspen trees....mmmm...sounds like I need to plan another trip?
Thanks for sharing my adventures with me.
I hope you make some of your dreams come true too.
v.